Appropriate[d] Dress Syllabus

Textile Fragment by Lloyd Kiva New for John Jacoby (ca. 1950), collection of the Fashion Study Collection at Columbia College Chicago.

This multimedia syllabus was as a resource following the exhibition, Appropriate[d] Dress: Native American [Mis]representation In Fashion & Culture researched and curated by students in Dr. Lauren Downing Peters’ course FASH 383: The Fabric of Cultures at Columbia College Chicago (November 19-December 10, 2019). Using items from the college’s Fashion Study Collection,  the goal of the exhibition is to open up a dialogue about the appropriation and representation of Native cultures within the Fashion Study Collection and within the fashion industry more broadly.

Established in 1992, the Columbia College Chicago Fashion Study Collection is home to over 6,000 objects, of which approximately twenty are attributed to or are inspired by Native American art and culture. Although each of these objects is embedded within a rich and diverse history, words such as “Indian,” “Navajo,” “Tribal” and “Native American” have been used interchangeably, and oftentimes incorrectly, within collections management systems to describe the motifs, prints and styles of some of these garments. The lack of information about these objects leaves them open for misinterpretation and stereotyping.

Appropriate[d] Dress: Native American [Mis] Representation in Fashion & Culture is a first step in correcting Columbia’s language, organization and understanding of those objects variously described as “Indian” or “Native American” in the Fashion Study Collection and an occasion to celebrate the work of contemporary Native designers.

This exhibition is divided into four themes: Ambiguous Designs, Sensitive Objects, Cultural Misrepresentation and Contemporary Native Designers. Through these themes, we explore the fine line that exists between cultural appreciation and appropriation. In doing so, this exhibition aims to start a critical dialogue at Columbia about the often incorrect or appropriative ways Native American culture is interpreted by and within the fashion industry. 

This conversation does not end with the exhibition, however. This multimedia syllabus is intended enable continued learning about topics such as cultural appropriation, stereotyping and implicit bias. Whether or not you were able to visit the exhibition, we hope you find this syllabus to be a useful resource for teaching and learning.

This multimedia reading list was compiled by students on the exhibition’s Education Team. They are: Liv Moriarty, Emilee Nichols, Brandon Yanez and Christen Weeden.

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1) Native American Culture in Fashion | TEDxFargo

This Ted Talk by Jessica R. Metcalfe speaks on relationship between appropriated and appreciated fashion. Throughout her talk she provides steps designers can take to make sure they are appropriately and respectfully, representing Native peoples and their culture in a way that is appreciative and not appropriative.

2) Cultural Appropriation vs. Appreciation | CBC Radio

Every Halloween, all across the country, people dress up in a number of costumes. Some of these so called costumes are not costumes at all, but rather a distasteful display of cultural appropriation. This video with Rosanna Deerchild highlights the problems with these offensive costumes and explains the difference between cultural appropriation and appreciation.

3) 6 Misconceptions About Native American People | Teen Vogue

In this video, seven Native American teens sit and discuss their culture, speaking on common misconceptions. In the interview, the girls talk about the true meanings behind traditional headdresses, the economic and legal ramifications of cultural appropriation, and the problematic term “redskin.”

4) Native American Girls Describe the Real History Behind Thanksgiving | Teen Vogue

Every year on the third Thursday of November Americans celebrate Thanksgiving. However, most Americans don't know the true meaning behind the holiday. In this video, six Native American girls sit to expose the real history behind Thanksgiving.

5) Native/American Fashion: Inspiration, Appropriation and Cultural Identity | Smithsonian

This talk by Timothy J. Shannon is from the 2017 Smithsonian event Native/American Fashion Inspiration, Appropriation and Cultural Identity which is in correlation to their exhibition Native Fashion Now. The presentation discusses how cultural identity is expressed through fashion and explores  examples Native American cultural appropriation.

6) All My Relations Podcast- Season 1, Episode 7 | BuzzSprout 

Matika Wilbur (Swinomish and Tulalip) and Adrienne Keene (Cherokee) discuss the topic of cultural appropriation. They break down the meaning of cultural appropriation as well as give examples of it. Matika and Adrienne also discuss Native representation and its importance.

7)  Native Opinion Podcast an American Indian Perspective | Native Opinion 

Native Opinion is a radio show and podcast hosted by Michael Kickingbear, of the Mashantucket Pequot Tribal Nation, and, David GreyOwl, a member of the Echota Cherokee Tribe of Alabama. Their educational show is a combination of entertainment and information. Kickingbear and GreyOwl provide their audience with an Indigenous view on how Native American lives are impacted by American history, politics and culture.

8) Native American Imagery is All Around Us, While the People are Often Forgotten | National Geographic

Mark Trahant discusses the unacceptable treatment of Native Americans form the start of “America.” He discusses older and current uses of Native motifs and cultures in marketing and advertisements. He also discusses the importance of treating Native Americans as Americans and not as symbols.

9) A Much needed Primer on Cultural Appropriation | Jezebel

Katie J.M. Baker discusses the definition of cultural appropriation and gives many examples in society and fashion. Utilizing Susan Scafidi’s “Three S’s,” she discusses why cultural appropriation is harmful and what laws exist to prevent it. Baker also tackles the fine line between appropriation and appreciation.

10) Cultural Appropriation, A Perennial Issue On Halloween | NPR

Leila Fidel discussed the problematic tradition of “playing Indian” on Halloween. She discusses the long history of Native cultures and symbols being mocked on Halloween. Fidel discusses why this is not okay and why it is hurtful to Native Americans.

11) Sports & Stereotypes: Native American Mascots | Public Anthropology

This article by Margot Bailowitz, Nayive Gaytan, and Rachel Kim focuses on the use of Native American motifs amongst American sports teams. Focusing on two case studies, the author discusses the politics and problematics of using these motifs along with steps that can be taken to move beyond the practice.

12) Instagram Accounts of Native Designers and Activists

Throughout the research and writing phases of the exhibition, we learned that the single best way to avoid cultural appropriation is to support Native artists. The following accounts are Instagram handles of Indigenous Native American designers, activists and researchers to follow to continue research on the topic: @byellowtail, @lilnativeboy, @beyondbuckskin, @project_562, @makwa_studio, @ingigenousgoddessgang, @oxdxclothing, and @michellebrownwear

13) Last but not least, here are a few resources within the Chicagoland area for further research of Native American Culture:  American Indian Center, Mitchell Museum of the American Indian, and the American Indian Association of Illinois.